Periodically, no matter how well-stored a charmstring is, it should be examined for developing conditions that might lead to buttons needing to be removed from the string, or the string simply deteriorating and the string falling apart. Things that can cause damage to a charmstring over time are extreme temperatures, high humidity, the development of rust of steel, corrosion on brass, copper and white metal, celluloid sickness and simple deterioration of string due to age.
When a string is first purchased I usually examine it very carefully for any conditions it may have that need to be addressed immediately. After counting the buttons and cataloging the string for inventory purposes my next task is to ensure the string will survive into the future. If a string has deteriorated and begun to fray or has already broken I decided if a new linen string or waxed linen string can be threaded through the buttons to help support the old string, or if the string has deteriorated too much due to poor storage in the past, if the buttons need to be restrung entirely. If a total restringing must be done I try to save as much of the old string and store that in a plastic baggie with any documentation I have gathered from the purchase of the string (invoice, bill of sale, and notes, pictures or miscellaneous items that come with the string are kept in a binder with tabs numbered to correspond with the string’s inventory number on its ‘key rag’ inventory control tag).
Next I assemble the tools of the charmstring restorer’s trade- cotton swabs, cotton pads (found in the make-up aisle). Mineral oil, Simichrome polish, a small brass bristle brush, number 2 pencil (disposable twist pencils work fine), a soft bristle tooth brush, salt, a small cup to hold water, paper towel sections, a soft cloth are in my arsenal when tackling a major button cleaning project. I lay out my tools, then spread a white hand towel on my work bench or kitchen table, which ever location I am working on the buttons. After examining the string and buttons and doing all the counting and note taking the process of carefully cleaning the buttons begins. If the original string has broken and it is not feasible to try a restringing of the original then the buttons are removed one at a time, cleaned according to material type and the restringing process begins on a new length of linen cord.
For brass buttons I generally give them a gentle brushing with the brass bristle brush to remove grim and corrosion. Cotton swabs can be used to scrub the brass and the soft bristle toothbrush can also be used to loosen caked in gunk and grime.
Glass and china buttons can generally be cleaned with a cotton swab dipped in water then blotted on a paper towel so the tip is damp, not soaking wet. Do not use a wet cotton swab on the back of a button that is reverse painted as it may remove the paint! It is usually okay to get the brass loop shanks wet as you will be wiping the button dry with a soft cloth or paper towel and then the button will be air drying as you continue cleaning the other buttons. Never immediately store buttons that have just been cleaned- they need to dry to avoid rust and corrosion!
I have found that for most MOP or shell buttons that have an accumulation of grime or deposits on them that it is okay to use a bit of table salt as a polishing compound when a bit of water is added to make a paste. Most shells come from the ocean which is salt water and can withstand the abrasive quality of a salt and water paste. If the shell button has any ornamentation or a pinshank it would be best to clean by means of another method. After cleaning the MOP or shell button a very light wipe with a cloth with a bit of mineral oil on it will restore the glow of the button. Remove any excess oil with a dry cloth or paper towel and allow to dry.
Steel buttons with a lot of rust and pitting might not be salvageable and if too far gone should be removed from the string. Some steel buttons with light rust can be salvaged with a good brushing with the brass bristle brush. If there is rust on the reverse side the number 2 pencil can be employed to scrub it off. Use cotton swabs to remove the lead residue. Polish with a bit of paper towel or a soft cloth to remove the remainder of the residue.
If the face of a button has any tint or paint on it, it is best to just lightly polish with a soft cloth and leave the natural patina of age rather than destroy the button by accidentally removing the paint.
I have not found any method of cleaning old fabric covered buttons. I generally give them a light wipe with a soft cloth and leave them alone otherwise. If anyone has any suggestions for cleaning cloth and fabric-covered buttons please share.
Silver buttons can be cleaned with silver polish.
Simichrome polish will clean Golden Age and gilt buttons nicely, but sometimes, if the design is very intricate it can clog up the face of the button with residue. Occasionally, it’s nice just to brush the button with the brass bristle brush and let it go at that.
Hard rubber buttons can be washed with water. If they look dull a light wipe with mineral oil will bring back the shine.
Horn buttons can also be lightly washed with water and then given a light wipe with mineral oil to restore them a bit. Allow them to dry thoroughly before restringing.
Vegetable ivory buttons can be cleaned with a cotton swab dipped in water and then blotted, unless the button is dyed. There may be color loss, and in that case should be lightly polish with a soft cloth.
White metal buttons and tin buttons that have corroded should be removed.
Celluloid buttons that have celluloid disease should be removed.
After all the buttons are cleaned, dry and restrung then can be stored. I keep my charmstrings in Riker boxes and store them flat to avoid as much stress on the strings as possible. If a charmstring is displayed vertically in a shadowbox or other case then there should be plenty of support provided for the string to ease the stress on it (run thin wires every two inches or so like staples through the backing. Check the charmstring at least annually for signs of stress on the string which could lead to breakage and the possibility of buttons being damaged. Try to keep the charmstrings stored in a place where the temperature does not go to extremes of hot and cold, and the humidity is also not high.
I keep a log book and record the periodic inspections of the buttons and strings I perform…usually once a year I will look at the buttons, handling them gently, and address any issues that have cropped us (rust, corrosion, disease, string fraying, etc), recording what maintenance I have performed and when.
It’s a chore but a necessary one to preserve the buttons for future generations to enjoy.
If you make the investment, or have inherited a charmstring then maintaining the buttons and the string will add to the length of time you have that string to enjoy.
I like handling the strings but bear in mind that all buttons will become fragile with age. This is especially true for kaleidoscope buttons that tend to lose their glass dome tops. (Never get a kaleidoscope button wet!). Other buttons tend to disintegrate around the embedded loop shank. Charmstrings should be handled gently, and are best handled while wearing cotton, latex or vinyl gloves to prevent the body’s natural oils from being transferred to the buttons and possibly causing damage.
If you have any additional comments or helpful hints please feel free to share them here.
Susan
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